7-5-2020 Elko, NV Part II

Historically, Elko was all about ranching, agriculture and mining.  The biggest gold supply in the US comes from this area, even now.  Who knew?   When the transcontinental railroad was being constructed, the Central Pacific came from the West and the tracks ran through Elko enroute to Promontory Point, UT where the “Golden Spike” was driven in 1869.  Then the Western Pacific Railroad was established, its tracks also running through the center of the town of Elko.  It was mayhem for decades, car-train and train-train crashes killing hundreds, until the tracks were finally relocated outside of town.  That was called, “Project Lifesaver,” and wasn’t completed until 1979.  Now, the center of town is a huge paved and landscaped boulevard where the tracks used to be.

Artistically-painted cowboy boots are situated along the boulevard and at other random corners in town.  Several places we have visited in our travels have themes similar to this.  In one town, the art object was the buffalo.  In another, a longhorn steer.  In Rapid City, a bronze life-sized statue of each of our Presidents.  And here, the cowboy boot, honoring the rugged heritage of the area.

Garcia with his award-winning saddle

The Northeastern Nevada Museum possesses an incredible array of artifacts that walk through all the phases of Elko’s development. In 1860, this cabin sat 60 miles south of Elko and was used by the Pony Express carriers until 1861.  The interior indicates a pretty meager existence for these intrepid fellows.  This cabin was moved to the museum in 1960.  Another exhibit features the leather works of Guadalupe S. Garcia who was born in Mexico in 1864 and was a master leathersmith.  In 1904, Garcia crafted a saddle decorated with gold, silver and diamonds.  He entered it in the World Fair in St. Louis and the Lewis and Clark Exhibition in Portland, OR and took the gold medal at both.  This had never before been accomplished.  That saddle is now on display in a museum in Carson City.  His sons took over his artisan shop when he retired and later sold the business to the J. M. Capriola Co. and the tradition of unmatched artistry in saddle-making lives on.  They have made one-off saddles for folks such as Ronald Reagan and Harrison Ford.  The Capriola leather shop is still open in Elko. 

You never know what you'll find in your back yard!

The museum features an exhibit of a partial skeleton of a mastodon that was uncovered in Spring Creek in the backyard of a school teacher.  It is the only one of its kind found in the American Great Basin.  So you’re digging in your backyard to plant some tomatoes and you come upon a 2,000,000 year old mastodon skeleton.  How cool is that?  I’m guessing she may have quit her day job. 

The Basque people are an enigma.  They are not really Spanish, French, Italian or German.  They come from a small area in the Pyrenees that straddles France and Spain and have their own culture, particular dress and language all of which go back hundreds of years.  Originally whalers, it is thought that Columbus engaged the expertise of the oBasques to craft the ships he sailed in 1492.  When they migrated to America, they continued with the ranching and sheepherding they had done in their homeland, establishing huge ranches in Nevada between 1870 and 1890.  The Basque heart still beats strong in several areas in the west and they have tight clan traditions.  In the Star Hotel there is a Basque restaurant furnished with long tables that seat as many as 16 people.  Next to ours was one such table and it was occupied by Basque folks, some in their native dress, singing boisterously, laughing, happy and proud of their heritage. 

Lady's traditional dance dress (looks
a bit like a dirndl)

Wonderful group of folks!

Read the shirt carefully... 

Some songs they sing are traditional, others were very much Americana on this 4^th of July week end, including the American national anthem sung in full-throated harmony that echoed through the room.  And the ethnic food!  You order the type of meat you wish for your entree (many of the selections are lamb) and the rest just keeps coming:  appetizers, bread, soup, salad, two kinds of beans, potatoes, a pasta dish and vegetables.  If you leave hungry, that’s your problem!  The jovial atmosphere added to the fun in this unique setting. - more to come

Bon appetit!  (Or however they say it in Basque)