6-23-19 Meridian and Jackson, MS

We are camped in Toomsuba, MS but we spent today poking around nearby Meridian.  The city’s history dates back to the 1830s but it really became solidly established in 1855 when the railroads intersected here.  It was even the state capital for a short time.  Meridian had become a significant Confederate outpost but during the Civil War, William Tecumseh Sherman (I love to say, “Tecumseh.”  My next cat will be named Tecumseh.  “Here, Tecumseh! ”) came through and obliterated the city.  His famous words were, “Meridian no longer exists.” 

Sherman's bowties

Because the railroads played such an important part in the war effort, providing supplies and armaments, Sherman’s army embarked on the task of destroying this important conduit.  They tore up the rails, then used the ties for firewood to heat the rails and wrap them around trees.  They were called, “Sherman’s bowties.”  The Union Army destroyed 100 miles of the tracks around the city of Meridian.  Undaunted, the Rebs rebuilt the tracks in 26 days.  Don’t mess with us, General W. Tecumseh!

Merrehope mansion

The Merrehope House, a Greek Revival “cottage” built in 1858 up on a hill, eventually grew into a beautiful mansion.  During the Civil War, it was occupied by the Confederates, specifically Gens. Johnston and Polk and later by Union officers.  W. Tecumseh S. arrived in Meridian with 10,000 troops and ran Polk out of town.  In the Battle of Meridian, it was one of 6 houses that he chose not to destroy, probably because he was living there.  Despite his boast of destroying Meridian, the city was rebuilt and is now a thriving metropolis.  I repeat, don’t mess with us, General W. Tecumseh.

Gustav Dentzel immigrated (legally) to the US from Germany and was part and parcel of a family of artisans and carousel builders.  In 1896, he launched on a project to create a carousel for the 1904 St. Louis Exposition.  The carousel was sold in 1909 to the city of Meridian for $2,000 (now worth more than $1M) and has been housed in the Carousel House here ever since.  Projects to restore the animals, hand-carved from basswood and poplar, have revealed that over the decades, 6-10 coats of paint had been applied.  It is now one of 11 carousels nationwide that is an historic landmark and the only one in the South.  As a tribute to this landmark, there are carousel horses located around the city, each artistically painted and named.  It is a really pleasant drive with the pretty horses on the corners here and there.

Horse Power, located at 210 22nd St.
in Meridian

It was undecided if we should drive the two legs of the triangle, down through Jackson, MS and then east, or if we should take the hippopotamus down the trace from Memphis to Toomsuba.  Our goal was to see the capitol bldg. in Jackson but we opted to drive the trace.  (Good thing, as it turns out.  We could never have parked the beast near the capitol.)  This was Friday afternoon and as it turns out, the capitol bldg. is closed on the week end which called for a 3-night stay.  On Monday, we backtracked 90 miles to Jackson.  First, lunch at Saltine Oyster Bar which features you-know-what.  I had a wonderful feast of oysters on the half shell and alligator stew.  I begrudgingly shared with Spouse to prove my eternal love.  After lunch, off to the capitol building.  Centuries ago, MS lay under a shallow sea and so most of the land here is unstable sea floor.  The original capitol was built on poor sea floor foundations and soon began to falter.  About the same time, MS won a $1M lawsuit against the IL Central Railroad for back taxes and used the winnings to build a new capitol which was begun in 1901 and finished in 28 months.Much of the interior is Italian white and black marble and faux man-made marble.  The architect’s idea was to allow in as much natural light as possible and the floors on the fourth floor are embedded with glass cylinders to allow light to pass through and illuminate the stained glass ceiling on the third floor. The two legislative chambers are crowned with stained glass domes which allow them to be brightly lit with natural light.  The capitol sits on a square of 19 acres, pristinely manicured and populated with trees and flowers indigenous to MS, among them, the magnolia, the pretty MS state flower.

Capitol Jackson, MS

Dome over the House of Representatives

Tile floor on the third level outside the
Senate chambers.  The ancient swastika (before Hitler)
was meant to convey good fortune and
well-being.

The pretty Magnolia, the MS state flower.
We see thousands everywhere.

Old Glory and the MS state flag

 

My first leg of the journey plans are now behind us.  It’s Rob’s turn.  Next stop:  Montgomery, AL, a nice short drive and a nice long 5-night stay.  Hurray!  Rob’s got this!