2-26-2015 COLOGNE, GERMANY

COLOGNE, GERMANY 2-26-2015

Before I leave Holland (or the Netherlands), I have another story to tell you.  Here, Christmas is called St. Niklaas Feest, and happens on Dec. 6^th, not the 25^th.  On this day, ol’ St. Niklaas, in a long white beard, arrives in his robes styled like a Bishop, with a miter and scepter.  He is accompanied by his assistants who are called Zwarte Piets.  The assistants are not tiny elves but full-sized.  St. Niklaas arrives on a white horse followed by his “black piets” who carry sacks filled with treats (or coal, if you’re naughty).  The piets know which children have been good and give those treats, candy and cookies.  But, if you’ve been naughty, the piets might grab you and throw you in one of their sacks, so you better watch out, you better not cry.  He sees you!  The piets are black because when they visit the houses, they come down the chimney so they are usually covered with soot.  There are parades through the towns with St. Niklaas leading followed by piets, performers in black-face and big red lips, toting their sacks.  That is, until recently.  The locals have decided that black-face is incorrect and racist and so now, the zwarte piets are no longer zwarte.  They paint their faces orange or, wait for it, rainbow!  Political correctness run amok is now alive and well in Holland (or the Netherlands).

The boat sailed all night and made good time, arriving in Cologne 2 ½ hours ahead of schedule.  I ran

MS River Harmony

into the captain in the hall and asked, “You kicked in the turbos or what?”  He laughed and explained.  When the water is high (due to rain and snow melt), he can make good time because there is less technical maneuvering to do amid the big cargo barges, their tugs and other tour boats.  And although we were running against the current, the water is quite high now so, in a word, Captain Marian kicked some serious ass last evening. 

Chef Nicu - I like standing
next to this guy!

At 9AM this morning, it was time to attend stollen class presented by Head Chef Nicu and the pastry chef.  Nicu was very funny and I learned a lot.  For example, when kneading the dough, do not use extra flour, it makes the bread dry.  Also, do not knead on a hard surface but on a table cloth, for the same reason. 

Making stollen

Mom used to make stollen I know, but I don’t think she used crushed almonds nor did she soak the raisins in rum, that I remember.  It turned out very good so I guess now I have another experiment to perform at home.  But I’ll use pecans and try soaking some dried blueberries in rum along with the raisins!

Afterward, we were off on a walking tour on the cobblestone lanes into Cologne, about 2 miles to and fro, peering into the shops, admiring the old architecture and ending up in front of the Cologne Cathedral.  It is breathtakingly huge and beautiful.  The construction of this monster began in the 1200s and took 600 years to complete.  (Sounds like Boeing.)  During WWII, although most of the city was obliterated, the Allies took particular care not to bomb near this spectacular landmark.  The cathedral is the final resting place of the Three Wise Men. 

Cologne Cathedral

Tomb of The Three Wise Men

You can view the elaborate gold tomb that holds these relics.  This is all “in theory,” of course, since no one knows the DNA of the Three Wise Men, but Cologne owns this lore and there ain’t no fuzz on it.  (We do know that the Three Wise Men (and the camels they rode in on) arrived late, Jan. 6^th, to the birthday party at the stable in Bethlehem because they refused to ask for directions.  Wise men, indeed.)

Cathedral Christmas Market

Cologne is the first of the Christmas Markets featured on this trip.  Let the festivities begin!  Lunch on the ship?  We think not.  A hot bratwurst on a crusty bröchen and a hot cup of glüwein, please.  What is glüwein, you ask?  It is a hot drink of spices, cider and wine.  You can also add other superchargers, such as rum or amaretto.  It is everywhere in the marketplace.  It warms the fingers, tummy and soul and puts a “glow” on the cheeks, as the name suggests.  Since it was in the 40s, the glüwein was most welcome!  Much more to come on the Christmas markets!

Rob at the Weihnachtsmarkt

Gluwein!

Happy Thanksgiving!  The good River Harmony crew decorated everywhere with American flags and served us a traditional turkey dinner this evening and pumpkin pie for dessert!  Thank God the founding fathers changed their minds about making the turkey our nation’s symbolic bird.   What would we have eaten on Thanksgiving, eagle?  Gross!  Probably tastes like dead fish!

Thanksgiving Day in Yurrup