11-27-2015 KOBLENZ, GERMANY

11-27-2015 KOBLENZ, GERMANY

Compared to Cologne, Koblenz is a smallish city, population about 100,000 people.  Again a port city, located at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers, it was heavily bombed during WWII and the town was largely destroyed.  Much of what we see in Koblenz is buildings, bridges and streets are replicas.  The town folks have done a wonderful job of restoration and the buildings are quaint, artistically finished and so pretty.  The streets are uneven cobblestone and narrow, nevertheless, cars and vans drive both ways up and down the lanes and you need to squeeze up against the buildings to allow them to pass.

Mask on museum below the clock

There is a story in Koblenz about a pirate, one Johann Lutter von Kobern, who pillaged the boats that traveled up and down the river.  Finally, the village folks captured and imprisoned the pirate.  He was found guilty of his crimes and was sentenced to hang.  As they paraded him down the streets to the gallows, he shouted at the villagers who lined the streets, “You should build a monument to me!  I will watch over your town and it will be good luck and good fortune to you!”  The monument the town folk saw fit to build to Pirate von Kobern took the form of a mask installed upon the town hall building.  The eyes move back and forth to symbolize the idea that he is keeping an eye on the town, probably sarcasm. 

Pirate Johann Lutter
von Kobern's mask

On the hour and on the half hour, he sticks his tongue out, possibly his way of expressing his opinion of the villagers who hanged him. 

We spent only enough time in Koblenz to take a quick stroll through the Christmas Markets, find a spicy sausage on a brötchen (hard roll) and a glüwein.  Then we hurried back to the ship.  We were admonished to be back aboard before 1PM.  On the shore excursions, we carry boarding passes when we depart the ship and when we return, we toss them in the box at the desk.  They do their best to perform a head count.  And then, they sail, with or without you and your boarding pass.  This may be the primary reason that they give each of us a map of the city before we go ashore.

Weihnachtsmarkt in Koblenz

Gluwein at the Koblenz Christmas Market

There was a reason why we sailed during the daylight hours today.  This section of the Rhine is bordered by many pretty villages, the requisite kirche (church) in the center and hundreds of castles up on the hills.  The crew spoke to us as we glided quietly down this stretch of the river, explaining the significance of the points of interest and, even better, important navigational maneuvers.  The Rhine area is famous for wine and foothills along the river are streaked with rows of grape vines and make the hills look like they are draped in corduroy.  We thought the castles stood high on the slopes as fortification and protection but in reality, they were simply monuments the inhabitants built to themselves, folks who became wealthy by harassing the commerce on the river in days past.  They strung ropes across the river and watched for ships from on high. 

Village and castle along the Rhine
taken from River Harmony's upper deck

Another village and castle along the Rhine

Village and castle, one more time

Then, they trapped the ships carrying goods and merchandise and small local armies forbid passage unless they paid a tax, which of course was pocketed.  And also they were required to allow the villagers first dibs on their wares.  So other than these castle assholes and a weird pirate, it was a lovely day of sailing in the sunshine.

At dinnertime tonight I added another fish to my list.  It is called, “pangasius,” a white fish of a texture and taste like flounder.  Rob had duck leg.  Forget it.  It is not possible for me to eat a portion of a cute little duck.  If you eat his legs, how does he walk around and swim?

Lindy, Capt. Marian Vieriu and Rob