8-21-2016 GIG HARBOR, WA PART II

The U.S. Explorer Expedition was launched in 1838 and Lt. Charles Wilkes, Captain and excellent map maker, was appointed to chart the Pacific Ocean and Antarctica.  So while he was parked up north in what is now British Columbia, three of his crew paddled away heading south in the “captain’s gig,” a 23’ long rowboat.  They moored up in what is now known as Gig Harbor and  liked it so much that they never went back.  No word if they ever returned the captain’s boat. 

The harbor has been called home by native Americans for about 9,500 years.  The beaches and coves were named for the sea life that could be captured at those locations, for example, one cove was given an Indian name meaning, “salmon,” another meaning, “large clams.”  But Gig Harbor was, of course, “discovered” in 1840 by white guys belonging to the Wilkes Expedition.  For decades before this, explorers sailed right by the cove because the entryway was hidden behind a sandy spit that jutted out.  Now, the shores are occupied by beautiful homes owned by people who have money by the huge boatloads (which are moored at the piers in the marina).

Rob was feeling  a little woozy today, probably because he walked into the corner of one of the rv slides a couple of days ago and split his forehead wide open.  We’ve been attending his wound and it’s healing but today was down time for Rob.  I proceeded alone on the two-hour-long harbor cruise which sailed out to the Tacoma Narrows and a bit beyond.  The water is blue and very cold, ranging in the 40s + 5F and somewhat deep, more than 200 feet under the Tacoma Narrows bridge.  At one place where we sailed about 25 feet from shore, the water was 53 feet deep.  More like a fjord than a bay!  The water is also turbulent with current and tides so the harbor seals are well-fed with the fish that are literally swept into their mouths!  The four pairs of nesting bald eagles are also living in a hunter’s paradise.  Two of these eagles were showing off at the peaks of the pines.

We studied the collapse of the Tacoma Narrows bridge in college when professors used it as an example of “divergent series” in wave theory.  Like, wave your ass good bye?  Folks used to like to drive on “Gallopin’ Gertie,” as if it were a carnival ride, whooping it up as it swayed back and forth in the wind.  (Watch the YouTube videos!)  

Sturdy Gertie (green) and Third-y Gertie (gray)

Finally, one day in a 50 knot wind, it broke up and fell where it still lies and the Giant Pacific Octopi took up residence.  Since then, the two newer bridges were constructed in more stable fashion with pilings 100 feet below the bottom of the sea.  The divers were observed by the curious, intelligent octopi.  One diver told of an incident when he was tapped on the shoulder.  He turned around to a giant octopus handing back his crowbar.  The green bridge was the first to be constructed and is named, “Sturdy Gertie.”  The gray one is, “Third-y Gertie,” as in third and final.

Gerties across the Tacoma Narrows

On the return trip, we sailed by a small community called Salmon Beach.  The houses are out in the water on stilts.  It is a steep walk up to the flat where their cars are parked not to mention a steep walk down, either way on a switchback trail or 237 steps carrying an armload of groceries or, say, a new refrigerator. 

Salmon Beach and the staircase (237 steps - both ways)

I said to the captain, “These houses must cost a fortune!”  He said, “Not really.  The owners are raped in insurance premiums to cover everything from tsunamis to mud slides.”  Apparently, the homes are cheaper than the insurance policies.  Flat-lander that I am, all I ask is, “Where’s Albertsons from here?”  And, “Who cleans it?”

The Indians called Mt. Rainier, “Tacoma (The Mountain That Was God)”.  A big debate developed among white guys as to what the mountain should be named.  The State Supreme Court stepped in and dubbed it after Peter Rainier, as proposed by his buddy George Vancouver. 

Mount Rainier from Tacoma Narrows

Rather bizarre.  Rainier served as an officer in the Revolutionary War on Britain’s side, was a decorated British officer, eventually served in Parliament and retired in England.  There is a movement afloat to restore the original name, “Tacoma.”  Okey dokey then!  It’ll give Obama something to do in the event of a world crisis, hey?  He can come up here and rename a mountain!  Something he knows how to do!

Sunset dinner at Anthony's on the harbor

As luck would have it, there is an Anthony’s in Gig Harbor!  As the sun set over the marina, Rob and I sipped a pomegranate-tequila cocktail and dined on prawns and lobster tail!  I am wind-blown and in information-overload while the patient is healing.  A good night’s sleep in the woods, tonight, and tomorrow, we will move along a short way up the peninsula to Port Angeles.

Good night!